It’s always a treat to surf during the week. You rush through the work day to get everything done so you can leave right on time, then make the mad dash for the beach, ride/walk/skate as fast as you can to the ocean, change into your wetsuit, run and jump in the ocean and ahhhhhh………..everything washes away. And for a few hours, it’s just you and Mother Ocean. Well, and forty or so of your ‘closest’ friends!
I was really tempted to surf Lowers tonight after my standard drive by surf check, but getting out from the truck I asked a guy coming up where he surfed and he said ‘Lowers! It’s goin’ off, Filipe Toledo is out!”. Then I remembered, The U.S. Open is in town…..Uppers it is then.