It’s always a treat to surf during the week. You rush through the work day to get everything done so you can leave right on time, then make the mad dash for the beach, ride/walk/skate as fast as you can to the ocean, change into your wetsuit, run and jump in the ocean and ahhhhhh………..everything washes away. And for a few hours, it’s just you and Mother Ocean. Well, and forty or so of your ‘closest’ friends!
I was really tempted to surf Lowers tonight after my standard drive by surf check, but getting out from the truck I asked a guy coming up where he surfed and he said ‘Lowers! It’s goin’ off, Filipe Toledo is out!”. Then I remembered, The U.S. Open is in town…..Uppers it is then.
I’ll bet not many people know that I was in the U.S. Open way back in 1997. I’m not sure how many more people will know now that it’s posted here, but anyway…..I competed in the longboard division. I didn’t have a stellar showing, but it was a lot of fun. I flew out from New Hampshire with a friend of mine and former US Men’s champ Kevin Grondin. That trip was the first time I ever surfed Trestles. I was hooked. There was a South swell in the water much like tonight, the weather was super hot and the water was super warm. It was paradise.
After the contest we headed to Baja for a fews days and then I flew up to Santa Cruz to see a friend and got to surf Pleasure Point. I’ll save that for another post!